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For more from Architecture Week, 1232 Shares ShareTweetEmailWhatsAppComments Read Full Article Most Popular Justin Bieber Remixed Drake’s “One Dance” to Make the Ultimate Song of the Summer Josie Canseco Bares All in NSFW Photoshoot by Henrik Purienne The iPhone 7 to Finally Feature 32 GB Base Storage, The Weeknd Rocks out in PLEASURES & More The 9 Best Sneakers Releasing This Weekend & Where to Buy Them Facebook Has Created an AI That Scans & Understands Your Private Messages Ian Kenneth Bird Shoots Iconic Graphic T-Shirts From the Past 1232 Shares ShareTweetEmailWhatsAppComments Previous Next Last month GOODHOOD hosted?
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while a soft lining wraps the interior collar and tongue. The Weeknd Rocks out in PLEASURES & More The 9 Best Sneakers Releasing This Weekend & Where to Buy Them Facebook Has Created an AI That Scans & Understands Your Private Messages Highsnobiety Crowns The Best Breakthrough Brand of 2015 1232 Shares ShareTweetEmailWhatsAppComments The HS Crowns are an annual awards series celebrating the very best in streetwear and street culture over the past 12 months.
Browse all the categories right here,or scroll down to read the entire shortlist When you’re done take a look at last year’s results Vetements
These days it seems almost every Fashion Week is defined by the emergence of a new celebrity poster-brand As your inbox fills up with images of people doing their best to convince you just how “in the loop” they are the search for a new status signifier takes on ever more importance This past year that brand was undoubtedly Vetements
That’s not to say the brand is some fickle flash-in-the-pan —it’s not The label was founded by alumni of Martin Margiela himself and the Vetements designers’ early insistence on anonymity certainly seemed in line with their onetime mentor’s famed ideology That said the brand’s newfound position as the no1 celebrity namedrop flies in the face of that somewhat
Vetements have had a huge year in the public eye and their spliced take on sportswear matched withunfeasibly oversized silhouettes are clearly in line with the zeitgeist… which might be why the likes of Travis Scott Kanye West Gosha Rubchinskiy and Rihanna are such huge fans Gosha Rubchinskiy
Gosha Rubchinskiy is undeniably one of the biggest —if not the biggest — success story of 2015 Although the Russian designer has had strong years in the past the past 12 months have seen his international cachet skyrocket cementing him as one of the most intriguing characters in fashion
His beguiling mix of countercultural influences make both his clothing and photography feel profoundly fresh and authentic not to mention fascinating to the Western market The effect of his newfound popularity has been to shine an unprecedented light on Russian youth culture while his fondness for retro sportswear has placed him at the vanguard of a movement that seems to be infiltrating fashion on all levels right now
From Parisian runways to street corners The deliberate naivety of much of his work sticks out like a middle finger amid the sea of hyper-polished brands and that’s incredibly refreshing OVO
Clothing labels produced by hip hop stars have — let’s face it — been decidedly hit and miss over the ages Yet 2015 may have been the year we bucked that trend While a seemingly never-ending number of column inches were being dedicatedto a certain other rap-fashion entrepreneur Drake’s OVO was quietly doing its “own” thing putting out some of the most solid and wearable streetwear collections of the year
While OVO has been around for some time – even creating a totally bizarre collaboration with Japanese menswear umbrella Nepenthes some years back – the past 12 months have seen a steady stream of quality leave its doors From the perfect pink Hotling Bling tees to the much-hyped Woes caps a surprisingly refined womenswear collection and even a super rare collaboration with Jordan Brand OVO hit the mark over and over again in 2015 Cottweiler
In 2015 London was at the epicenter of forward-facing fashion spanning the divide between street and runway like almost nowhere else Brands like Cottweiler managed to present this merging paradigm perfectly blending streetwear looks with couture craftsmanship through a clearly articulated monochrome vision
As if to underline this fact the young label’s presentation at London Collections: Men scored rave reviews from both high-brow fashion critics and underground grime aficionados alike no-doubt boosted in part by emphatic co-signs from musicians like Skepta and FKA Twigs
In many ways the brainchild of Ben Cottrell and Mathew Dainty perfectly captured the fashion mood of London over the past year placing them at the heart of an emerging group of designers that are once again making the British capital the go-to place for pioneering street style NOAH
The news that Brendon Babenzien was leaving his post as head designer at Supreme sent shockwaves through the world of streetwear earlier this year The designer who had been at the NY brand since the mid ’90s (with a five-year sabbatical) was a fundamental part of the Supreme’sinimitable look and feel and many die-hard fans were dismayed that he was moving on
However the announcement was tempered by the revelation that Babenzien was in fact relaunching the brand he left Supreme to found the first time NOAH which originally ran from 2002 to 2007 always had a slightly more mature aesthetic than its boisterous red-boxed sibling making it a godsend for people who like Babenzien found themselves a little on the old side for the loud and in-your-face skate wear of their youth
While the brand only got underway halfway through the year they’ve already opened their own flagship store in New York and look on course to be the definitive name in the “Post Skate” fashion movement —a trend that is almost certainto grow and grow in the years to come That sounds like an incredible achievement but when Brendon is involved that’s just par for the course Fear Of God
Fear Of God may have risen to global prominence with the helpa much-coveted Kanye co-sign a few years back but Jerry Lorenzo’s label has proven to be far more than a mere hype-fuelled fad Now that Yeezy is off doing his own thing (taking his legions of fans with him) Fear Of God has had to stand tall on its own merits and that it has done very capably
The elongated proportions draped silhouettes and extensive layering have become an instantly recognisable hallmark earning the label a loyal following withaclearly defined look What’s more unlike a certain fashion-obsessed hip-hop star this year Jerry Lorenzo actually delivered a genuinely affordable iteration of his vision for younger fans who might not have the money to afford his mainline
Some might argue that weakens the brand,adidas running shoes latest; others would say it’s being inclusive and true to peopleof all backgrounds And quite frankly that’s something to be celebrated Monkey Time
Re-launched under Japan’s United Arrows umbrella in 2014 after a two-decade hiatus Monkey Time set about making up for lost time by releasing collab after collab after collab this year Over the past 12 months they’ve linked up with the likes of Clothsurgeon Asics FILA PUMA Filling Pieces Chapter Champion ICNY and others providing a steady stream of excellent product and exhibiting a versatile approach to laidback sportswear
The label also produced a nuanced mainline collection which mixed elements of Americana with a typical Japanese eye for detailing reminding the world why Japan so often stands streets ahead of the pack when it comes to vision and craftsmanship For many 2015 was the first time Monkey Time made its way onto their radar but most would agree it’s not likely to be the last Brain Dead
Brain Dead’s unique lo-fi zine-style graphics and collaborative artist-based ethos set them lightyears apart from mostof this year’s emerging streetwear brands Founded by two industry veterans Kyle Ng and Ed Davis Brain Dead’s diverse range of leftfield countercultureal reference points brought a refreshing perspective to the streetwear landscape —a place saturated to breaking point with lazy and clichéd attempts at being “edgy”
With an offering that felt both exciting and new yet somehow familiar Brain Dead define authenticity in the same way Judge Potter Stewart once defined pornography —you know it when you see it Clearly the folk at Kinfolk and Dover Street Market knew it too given that they both produced collaborations with the brand this year Midnight Studios
Midnight Studios is the brainchild of LA native Shane Gonzales whose riffs on the world of punk and anarchism have seen his wares earn favour from the likes of A$AP Rocky and Wiz Khalifa in the past year This in part is due to the unprecedented influence of seminal stylist and “it” crowd mainstay Ian Connor who has been a vocal champion of the brand
Gonzales’ reference points range from figures like Sid Vicious to Jun Takahashi’s legendary Japanese label Undercover all filtered through his own youthful aesthetic It’s that sense of young vibrancy that has seen the brand picked up by tastemakers across the world not to mention influential stockists on all sides of the Atlantic Cav Empt
We named Cav Empt as our Editors’ Choice for Best Breakthrough Brand in last year’s HS Crowns (and featured them in our magazine long before that) and since that point the label has well and truly wedgeditself within the modern streetwear landscape While in years past CE was definitely a name passed around by “those in the know” 2015 saw it break through in a much more widespread context
As its numbers of stockists rose so too did the frequency with which CE appeared on the streets demystifying the air of secrecy that once surrounded it Perhaps the most telltale sign that the brand has really “arrived” can be seen in the fact its retro-tinged early internet aesthetic has been routinely mimicked by many other brands all of which seems to makeCav Empt’s originality and execution all the more impressive 424
Operating in a niche somewhere between avant-garde fashion and the stylistic nuances of the rap world retailer 424 On Fairfax rose to prominence in recent years through their eclectic brand list that presents some of the freshest up-and-coming global designers Such retail nous however doesn’t always translate well into an in-house clothing line but this cannot be said of 424s namesake label
With its punk-like rebellious edge and strong anti-authority message packaged in a refined minimal format the brand certainly doesn’t look out of place alongside some of the other more established lines they carry Indeed this in-house label has been so successful that it has even been picked up and stocked other influential boutiques around the world —a sign of true approval if ever there was one RAINS
Danish outerwear label RAINS has been absolutely everywhere in the past year While its inclusion in this list alongside brands from the upper echelons of designer fashion might seem strange RAINS has broken through with consumers in an entirely different way to the high-priced exclusive names at the opposite end of the spectrum
RAINS’ relative affordability wide range and easy availability through gargantuan retailers like Urban Outfitters and ASOS has made them pretty much ubiquitous this year —a fact helped massively by the addition of backpacks to their offering Yet despite that the brand has still managed to score some admirable collaborations with the likes of colette Opening Ceremony and Stüssy proving they are anything but a lowest common denominator mall brand To achieve such a balance between commercial success and credibility isn’t easy and they deserve applause for pulling it off Craig Green
When Craig Green first sparked interest at LC:M it was for sending a series of models down the runway with splayed wooden pallets fixed to their heads The result was a certain amount of derision from the critical fashion world which largely detracted from the real story: Craig Green was a designer capable of creating wonderfully complex garments that evoke real emotion in the heart of those around them
Fast forward to 2015 and all that early stone-throwing seems to have been forgotten with many citing Green as the spiritual heir to the mighty Rei Kawakubo Offering two collections that had a very clear lineage from one to the next (and without a wooden pallet in sight) this year Craig Green well and truly carved his niche in the hearts of fashion lovers the world over JW ANDERSON
2015 was an extremely busy year for JW Anderson as he set about reimagining historic Spanish leather house Loewe re-energising the label with his Ibiza inspired vision It was however his own eponymous label which earned the Derry-born designer the plaudits of press and colleagues alike as he took home the award for both best menswear and womenswear designer at the British Fashion Awards last month This was the first time anyone had ever won both categories
Although Anderson launched his eponymous brand in 2008 2015 was one of the first times the 31-year-old designer’s androgynous vision for the future really cut through with audiences both in and outside fashion’s insular bubble The result was the widespread praise it has long deserved Diadora
Two years ago Diadora stood for nothing within fashion – it was a middle of the range sportswear brand with zero clout more likely to be seen in your dad’s closet than on the pages of Highsnobiety It didn’t matter that the brand had been around for more than 70 years that situation didn’t seem likely to change any time soon…
Fast forward 24 months and almost out of nowhere the Italian sportswear brand is releasing some of the most interesting exciting and downright bonkers sneaker designs on the market Spanning the full spectrum of tastes the brand has dropped high-fashion collabs with Barney’s chic and minimal numbers with colette and even received the sneakerhead’s golden seal of approval with an exclusive Ronnie Feig project
If the march of the ’90s retro renaissance is set to continue Diadora is right out there at the forefront And we never thought we’d say that
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